Challenger Series - FTG

What is a competition simulation? 

Competition simulations are often seen as the gold standard of preparation for climbing athletes. Competition simulations, as the name implies, seek to emulate the environment and conditions you might expect to encounter in a real climbing competition. In this case, simulating a World Cup qualification round. 

What makes this unique?

World Cup formats are hard to simulate, primarily because they require unique and specific parameters. You need designated wall space that has to be reserved under specific time constraints, as well as specific style and difficulty variations. This format is climbed with 5 boulders, without seeing them beforehand, and with 5 minutes allocated to each boulder and 5 minutes of rest in between each. Routesetting is also approached uniquely when it comes to this style of climbing, demanding a wider variety of climbing styles and constructed with the circuit in mind. The wall space will be reserved for the time, and judges will be there to score you!

Who is this for?

If you’re curious and interested about competition climbing, and have been climbing regularly for a while, then you can probably give it a go! You’ll notice there are no gendered categories - this series is about individual progression and pushing boundaries, not comparison. Pick the difficulty that best reflects your level of experience and give it your best shot!

We have four categories you can sign up for:

• Beginner (Grades 5-6): for those climbing in this grade range, we’ll be introducing you to competition style movement under constraints and providing a rounded challenge.

• Intermediate (Grades 7-8): climbers that have a decent exposure to the sport - we’ll be serving up some tricky climbing and you’ll be required to apply sound strategy and technical skill.

• Advanced (Grades 8+): climbers in this category should have some experience in competition climbing or climbing comfortably at the level, seeking a hard challenge. 

• Open (Grades 9+): climbers competing or seeking to compete at the national & international level. This category reflects the standard of climbing you might expect at high level competition. 

How should I prepare?

Climbing a 5-on-5-off circuit demands versatility, fitness and strategy. You’ll be required to climb 5 boulders in a short amount of time - this means that you’ll have to approach with a strategy to expend your energy, skin and time. It’s helpful to try this in your own time - see if you can replicate the format by timing yourself!

If you haven’t experienced competition climbing before, there are a few tidbits to learn! If you’ve got questions on the day, feel free to ask our staff or if you’re in the middle of the round, you can ask your judge. 

Basic Competition Rules and Markings

Each boulder is marked with tape, designating specific points and positions. The start position will be marked with 4 pieces of tape - one for each limb. You are required to start the boulder by only using the marked holds and establishing contact with each limb on the marked holds in a controlled manner before moving on. A ‘zone’ hold will be marked with another piece of tape - if you control this hold you will be awarded additional points. If you reach the ‘top’ marked hold and control it, you have finished the boulder.

For further rule information -  IFSC Rules

What should I bring?

Depending what the weather is like on the day, you might want to bring a small tote bag or similar with you (to be kept off the mats) with items such as a water bottle, cooling items (small portable fan/moist towel), jumper, skin kit (bandaids/tape/clippers). Don’t forget your shoes!